I’ve played and excelled at many sports in my life. From soccer to basketball to volleyball, I enjoy all of them. However, I would say that the ultimate sport in existence is one that I have just recently taken up: surfing.
Surfing combines the need for all aspects of the physical realm including power and endurance, as well as the aspects of the mental realm. It is by far the most difficult sport to learn, and if you are attempting to get better, you simply never know about the dangers that you might face that day. In addition, surfing involves a lot more luck than many of the other sports because it depends on weather conditions, wave heights, and minute human errors can make a large difference in outcomes.
I have never felt quite as alive as I do when I surf. There is something about the sand on your feet, the sun on your back, and the roar of the ocean that makes you feel at peace with the world. This, despite the fact that on a good day, you really can only get a couple of good waves, especially when you are learning. 95% of your time is spent waiting for the right wave, swimming back out to the ocean, or falling off your board face first into a pile of crashing water. But with all the beautiful elements surrounding you, even those failures feel so pleasant.
And then, when you finally get on, and ride the rolling tide of water, balancing on a small piece of wood out there in the middle of the ocean with nothing around but God given beauty, you then understand why people give up their careers and their lives in search of the perfect wave. There is no better adrenaline rush.
I don’t always surf, but when I do, I smile all the way to the edge of world.